June 25, 2014

There is marketing and then there is brilliant marketing. Go shopping for watches and you may find yourself discovering a new goldfish bowl. The large Spanish watch group Festina (and brand of course) has recently started putting water-filled clear plastic bags on shelves with the newest versions of their Profudno dive watches in them. www.watcheshe.com/rado-watches-replica-c-235.html This isn't the first time a watchmaker has put a water resistant watch actually in water, but as far as we know it has never before been done like this. The brilliant concept is thanks to a Berlin-based agency called Scholz & Friends.
"Profundo" translates from Spanish into "deep." While these watches aren't deep under water, the message here is that they can stay in water for apparently very long lengths of time and be perfectly OK to be removed from the bag and be put on your wrist. It helps that the bags are filled with distilled water. What I like is that the retail packaging totally sells the concept of the watch. Nothing is said on the front except the name of the brand and the slogan "engineered for water," which has clearly been adopted from IWC's slogan of "Engineered for Men."
The Festina Profundo 6692 watch is likely a brand new model as it doesn't seem widely available yet. Coming in a few dial styles, the Profundo is 42mm wide in steel and water resistant to 200 meters. The dive-style watch has a rotating diver's bezel and comes in orange, yellow, blue, and black dial colors. Inside the watch is a Japanese Miyota quartz movement. The divers strap is either silicon, plastic, or rubber. We aren't quite sure since Festina merely refers to the material as "gummy."
Will other watchmakers follow suit? Perhaps. Though it is important to recall that the Profundo is a relatively inexpensive timepiece, and we don't expect to see $5,000 dive watches sitting for months in water. But just imagine you are a customer in a watch store and see a watch in a bag filled with water. Your inclination is going to be to pick it up, see that the watch is working, and examine it for rust. Assuming all is good it does send a powerful message about durability and utility.
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The tie between wristwatches and automobiles has been well established on these pages. Often times, when a brand releases a "car" watch, it can be a somewhat tenuous tie, or it's just for a single model. With the folks over at Autodromo, however, www.watchesming.net/rolex-watches-replica-c-78.html cars are simply a way of life, and it informs each and every watch they create.
Their latest models, the Prototipo and Prototipo Vic Elford, pay homage to auto racing of the 60's and 70's. This was a time when watches were truly a tool used in the cockpit of the car, allowing the driver to time laps with ease. This is done in much different ways these days of course, but that heritage lives on in this new line.
For this lineup, Autodromo focused in on the Prototype Era of endurance racing (prototipo is Italian for prototype). To start with, this informed the case shape. The 42mm stainless steel case has smoothed out curves (and integrated lugs), which is intended to call to mind the curved bodies of the cars that were on the racetrack in the 1960's and 70's.
Next, they built in a chronograph movement to allow for timing of laps, calculation of speed (via the tachymetre scale), and added in another surprise - a pulsometer scale, allowing you to calculate your heartrate. The chronograph is driven by a Seiko "mechaquartz" movement, (VK63 in the Elford, VK64 in the others). The quartz system drives the main movement (and provides the utmost accuracy), while the mechanical components come into play with the chronograph actions, allowing for the instant flyback we more commonly associate with mechanical chronographs. As an aside, I've had watches with this movement in them, and they are fun to play with.
This movement can allow timing down to 1/5 of a second. On the upper end of the scale, the right-side register can track up to 24 hours, meaning this could conceivably be used in an endurance race (the left register records the chrono minutes). Rounding out the readouts on the dial, you have the date display showing up at 6 o'clock (for the non-Elford models).
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Now, about the Vic Elford model. Why this man? Well, he is a legend in auto racing, both for a combination of his sheer speed, as well as how well he drove on some of the world's most challenging tracks, including the infamous Nurburgring. For this model, Autodromo collaborated with Elford to create a watch commemorating his 1968 victory on the Targa Florio track in Sicily. At one point in this race, he was behind more than 18 minutes - and ended up winning the race by almost four minutes.
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June 21, 2014

Now here is a watch that requires an introduction - being from Australia and in honor of Doctor Who. We've mentioned OWC watches before, www.watchgoing.com/rolex-c-63.html but this is a new twist on dive watch designs.
OWC, formerly known as Orange Watch Company, is a small operation in, you guessed it, Orange, Australia. Founder Dan Fock is one of the most detail-oriented and perfectionist people I know, so it's no surprise that customers are willing to wait a year or more for one of his watches. The watch shown above is a new model, the MS-1001, with a theme near and dear to Dan:
The dial design says "Time" in the language of the "Time Lords," and Dan's pictures show other bits of Dr. Who stuff as well. Dr. Who has been running a very, very long time and has a cadre of fans who adore the show. Me, I've seen the Torchwood spinoff series, but have just started watching with the 2005 series following Dan's advice.
Even to someone like me who doesn't recognize it as Dr. Who, I really like the dial design and how it incorporates OWC. Reminds me of the Nazca Lines. Very striking.
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June 19, 2014

Whatever you may think of the practicality of a tourbillon in a watch, there's no escaping that they are quite a visual treat to watch while they work away. Normally when a watch has one, though, that's all you really see of the movement from the dial side.http://www.watchcopyer.com/top-ulysse-nardin-replica-watches-34.html The folks over at Armin Strom give us more of a show, however, as they follow the design direction it's namesake founder (a Master Skeletonizer) set for the brand 40 years ago. Their latest gives us another treat that I don't know I've ever seen visible from the front of a watch.
The trick that the Armin Strom Tourbillon Gravity Fire (ref RG14-TF.M.90) has up its sleeve is a micro-rotor. As you might suspect, a micro-rotor is simply a smaller version of the rotors we're used to seeing in an automatic watch; these usually lead to a thinner watch than you might normally have as well.
In this watch, Armin Strom makes the micro-rotor plainly visible over at the 4 o'clock position. Now, obviously, a rotor of any sort makes use of gravity (and your motions against gravity) to help get it spinning around to wind up your watch. This makes for an interesting juxtaposition against the tourbillon (at 8 o'clock) which is (theoretically) working to negate the effects of gravity. A sort of yin and yang, if you will. It is very much worth seeing the evolution from the previous Armin Strom Tourbillon collection watches (hands-on here).
Those are just the more obvious aspects of the ATM13 movement, which is just about on full display through the skeletonizing of the movement, and the relative lack of a dial. That all said, it does look like a fairly readable watch (which is a real risk with dials this open), with wide, lume-filled hands (reminiscent of buildings, if you ask me) contrasting against the darker finishes in the dial.
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June 14, 2014

Late night e-mails from German-born Swiss watchmaker Thomas Prescher are always interesting. This is the man who has brought us the first triple axis-tourbillon and who really epitomizes the concept of independent watchmaker. www.jemontre.net/je-montre.com/tag-heuer-c-43.html Always inspired, the newest watch by Mr. Prescher is his most impressive and ambitious project yet. Called the Nemo Sub I, this is perhaps the most interesting new watch of 2014, and is likely to stay that way.
What you see is a mostly sapphire crystal case that is meant to look like a steampunk submarine dreamed out of the work of early science fiction writer Jules Verne. This is also the third in a series of "Nemo" watches, inspired by the Captain Nemo character that is featured in Verne's Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea and The Mysterious Island. This watch journey began with the simple (for Thomas Prescher) limited edition Nemo Sailor in 2012 and later more complicated and also limited Nemo Captain tourbillon in 2013. For 2014 the two first pieces are totally blown out of the water with the Nemo Sub I, a watch that, while fitting into the overall steampunk collection, is something totally different.
The case has two "side cars" in the form of peripheral tubes also produced from mostly synthetic sapphire crystal. All the metal hardware on the case is 18k red gold as well as palladium. The two smaller peripheral tubes each have two purposes. First they indicate either the hours (left) or minutes (right), and second they contain actual working (spinning) propellers. The side tubes cannot function alone however, as they are connected to the main case via "mystery" gear shafts that go through the brackets that seem to hold the entire assembly together.
The way the hours are minutes are indicated is via a tube that moves up and down as it spins and is read through an indicator window. It is quite an ingenious solution and I've never see anything quite like it. How does the watch look on the wrist? Weird of course. It is certainly wearable though, especially because the gold part of the case is meant to wrap around your wrist. Again, not a daily wear, but a very interesting design. Not sure about water resistance though.. you'd think a lot for a watch themed after a fantasy submarine right?
More surprises come in the form of the movement. Entirely made by hand and exclusively by Thomas Prescher himself, the movement is both an automatic and tourbillon-based. Bi-axial tourbillon actually. The tourbillon spins in two directions, with each being in 60 second rotations. The tourbillon is visible through the front of the case and it makes for a pretty awesome view in the entirely see-through case.
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The movement is also an automatic, as I mentioned. It does not use a normal rotor, though: Thomas Prescher designed it with a half cylinder versus half circle style rotor and it winds when spinning in both directions. It is toward the middle of the case and again, is viewable in the movement. Thomas Prescher reports about 40 hours of power reserve. A label of "Steam Engine" sits on the movement.
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Swiss Jeanrichard can't seem to get enough special edition models out their doors lately - but at least most of them are pretty cool. This newest series of special models is in honor of Japan, and puts a Hokusai-inspired dial on an Aquascope watch. Let me first mention what I don't know: and that is whether or not these are part of a limited edition, or if they are to be exclusively sold in Japan. www.rrwatch.org/breitling-watches-15.html I have a feeling the answer to both is "no," but we just don't know yet. Having said that, my instinct tells me these will be part of a limited production, meaning their numbers won't be strictly limited but they aren't going to be regular models and will be produced for maybe a year or so only.
For years now, we've seen dive watches with wave patterns on the dial. Brands such as Omega and Ulysse Nardin have been doing that for a while. Using instances like those as precedent, Jeanrichard decided to replicate some rather famous waves on the dials of two Aquascope models, that it touts as being produced to celebrate 150 years of Swiss-Japanese diplomacy. Honestly, I think the connection to the 1864 "Treaty of Friendship and Commerce" between Japan and Switzerland is a bit off-point and unnecessary. Swiss watch makers love to celebrate real and made up holidays, so we put up with it if interesting watches come as a result.
Japan is an important market for timepieces so Jeanrichard designed a dial that replicates the look of the very famous work by Katsushika Hokusai known as "The Great Wave Off Kanagawa." Often known simply as Hokusai's Great Wave, it is a masterful piece of artwork that almost everyone has seen before, and was created circa 1830 in Japan as a woodblock carving. While posters and prints abound, it is theorized the about 5,000 prints came off of the original woodblock carvings.
The Great Wave Off Kanagawa is an important work of art to me, for the silly reason that I had a big poster of it hanging over my bed for about a decade starting when I began college. It's odd how it was always a relaxing piece of art even though it depicted boats in imminent danger. While the full work isn't replicated on the dial of the Aquascope watches, the main theme of it is, with a pattern of repeating Hokusai-style waves.
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The special edition watch for Japan is built on the Jeanrichard Aquascope dive watch. 44mm wide in steel, the watch is water resistant to 300 meters and has a rotating diver's bezel. I've long liked this design for its bold stature, legible dial, and attractive design. Inside the watch is the caliber JR60 automatic, which uses a base ETA or Sellita Swiss automatic movement. These versions are pictured with the rubber strap, but the watch is also available with a matching steel bracelet.
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June 13, 2014

Ready for some new "Glashutte crack?" That is the term I just came up with to describe a fresh, difficult-to-resist, German tool watch from Glashutte. This one is from Muhle Glashutte is the new Small Second version of their popular M 29 Classic watch. Inspired by a historic Robert Muhle instrument, www.watchesyoo.net/omega-watches-replicas-2.html the M 29 Classic is really just that, an instrumental-inspired wrist watch that is elegant, yet satisfies your utility hunger.
When looking for something simple, clean, and Germanic, I have to say that I am much more drawn to designs such as this than say, the popular Bauhaus look that people look for at Nomos. The neighborhood competitors make a fine watch, but it is difficult to beat the sheer functional DNA that a piece like the M 29 Small Second watch has. I don't even think pieces were ready by the time these pictures were released. Look closely and it appears that someone took an image of the standard M 29 with a central seconds hand and digitally changed it to make space for the subsidiary seconds (small second) hand.
The dial will likely be available in a few colors and here is shown in off-white with red accents and those clean black hands. I love the very straight-forward dial with the inner hour markers and outer minute markers. The small seconds dial balances with the date window and even though the M 29 Small Second is similar to the standard M 29, it offers a welcome additional flavor. Size on the wrist is a generous 42.4mm in width for the polished and brushed steel case. The substantial lugs and crown protectors give the watch a serious feel that allows it to look like a serious tool versus some skinny dress watch.
Inside is a base Swiss Sellita SW290 (built on the SW200) automatic movement with some Muhle Glashutte enhancements. These include their "woodpecker neck regulation, and special automatic rotor. The M 29 isn't a sport watch, but isn't a dress watch. Rather, it has a more "academic" feel and we appreciate its sincere utilitarian purpose for existing.
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Besides their well known Pontos line, Maurice Lacroix has a great number of interesting watches in their Masterpiece line. We previously covered the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde watch a few years ago which has square and cloverleaf gears indicating the seconds. For 2014, www.demowatches.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html The Masterpiece collection gets a model known as the Gravity which is a uniquely appealing piece from the brand.
Maurice Lacroix has extended their haute horologerie "Masterpiece" line with the "Masterpiece Gravity" which features a large balance wheel on the dial as part of an in-house made movement. According to Maurice Lacroix, this is the first watch equipped with an oscillator assortment (balance roller, lever and escapement wheel) entirely made of silicon, which has a lighter weight than metal and no need for lubrication.
What's not to like with an escapement that promises greater accuracy, less maintenance, and more resistance to magnetic fields? Twenty years from now we will probably be shocked if watches don't all use advanced materials in the same way that vintage movements without incabloc (or other shock absorption systems) seem 'quaint' by today's engineering standards. With brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe using silicon, it can't be all hype, right?
No doubt many of you will note the visual similarity of the Gravity to the exposed balance wheel and colors on the Audemars Piguet Chronometer Jules Audemars watch (AP Escapement). Of course these watches are totally different, but the similarity (at least in the model with the blue and red tones) is probably at least somewhat intended.
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Speaking of other watch brands, the look of the darker toned Masterpiece Gravity watch reminds me of the design language of Greubel Forsey, but with less extremism.
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June 09, 2014
The Observatoire Chronometrique+ is a new initiative in which any and all Swiss-made mechanical watches can be submitted, and they test fully assembled watches, not just for their chronometric performance, but also their power reserve and their resistance to water and magnetism. At first sight, it certainly has the potential to make brands who have not done so in the past consider certifying their watches, contributing to some unexpected changes in the market. Let's explore the details of this new certificate and how it may influence the industry.
It is a bitter pill: the appearance and subsequent popularization of quartz watches beginning in the 1970s have rendered mechanical watches obsolete and have consequently pushed the Swiss watch industry to the brink of extinction, making for an almost twenty-year-long recovery. Quartz watches were (and are) cheaper to make, often more reliable, and always more accurate than the great majority of their mechanical counterparts. Nevertheless, the Swiss mechanical watch lives, enjoying its renaissance, a most peculiar phenomenon powered by its ability to transform mere everyday instruments into something more special, and often more luxurious.
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The mechanical watch premium is justified in part by the craftsmanship that goes into its construction. Providing certificates that guarantee the high quality of different technical and aesthetic aspects of a watch is a part of that justification. But first, we need to understand is how this new program fits among other certificates and the qualifications that make it a worthy authority.
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It would be extremely difficult even for the most educated scholars of the matter to find a time or age in the history of watchmaking that offered as many novel ideas as we have today. At present, the industry is in a phase where there is incredibly fierce and global competition between all brands, www.owatcho.com/replica-tag-heuer small and large alike, forcing all of them to push their own boundaries in a constant fight over an ever growing customer base. And much like the brands, us watch enthusiasts are often left with asking ourselves: just how could the latest and greatest be topped? A possible answer comes from Jaeger-LeCoultre who just announced its Hybris Artistica collection of not one or two, but 12 spectacular pieces–each of which could rightfully claim to be a remarkable timepiece in itself. Today we are looking at the three Spherotourbillon pieces of the collection, while articles dedicated to the other models will follow later on.
Before we discuss the watches themselves, let's briefly discover what the Hybris Artistica collection is and what it means for the brand. Jaeger-LeCoultre is among the few true manufactures, those with extensive in-house production capabilities concerning just about every phase of watchmaking. The brand has around 1,300 different movements and 350 patents to its name, and so it is of no surprise that they have been an important supplier to a great number of major Swiss watchmakers.
As per their claims, 180 skills are possessed and practiced under the roofs of their manufacture, and the Hybris Artistica is meant to be an exercise in showcasing the artistic nature of many of these skills in a special, synthetic way. This is achieved by mixing these more artistic crafts of the company with twelve of its most iconic timepieces, resulting in beautifully "reconsidered" versions of such trademark models as the Reverso, the Duometre Sonnerie and Duometre Spherotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 1 and 3, the Atmos clock, and a number of others.
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June 06, 2014

More retro-styled Longines watches? Oh, yes. New for 2014 is this collection of Longines Heritage Diver watches that come in two versions, including the Heritage Diver chronograph ref. L2.796.4.52.9 and the Heritage Diver three-hand ref. L2.795.4.52.0. Each of these dive watches is inspired by 1970s Longines sport Replica Watches, and they represent some interesting design features.
The tonneau-style cases in steel are typical of dive watches of the era, and it is a look I've personally always enjoyed, though this is one of the few times I've seen them with a 12-sided geometric bezel. As a dive watch, the Longines Heritage Diver has an internal rotating bezel (operated by the crown at 10 o'clock). At 43mm wide, these are not going to wear massively, but are not small watches.
Water resistant to 300 meters, the Longines Heritage Diver is a rather capable sport watch. There is healthy amount of lume on the dial, as is there 1970s styling, which can sometimes mean "too much color." Nevertheless, the dial of the Heritage Diver is still very functional. Over the dial is an AR-coated sapphire crystal, and I hope that red color isn't quite as bright in person. Actually, if the red was faded or had a bit of an aged look I think it might look a bit nicer.
Inside the Longines Heritage Diver watches are Swiss ETA movements with Longines named. Inside the Heritage Diver three-hand is the Longines caliber L633.5 which is an ETA 2824-2 automatic, and the Heritage Diver chronograph has a Longines Caliber L651.3 which is an ETA 2892-2 automatic chronograph movement.
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Between the two Longines Heritage Diver models, I prefer the chronograph as it makes better use of the dial and the overall 1970s dive watch theme. It is an interesting watch, but I still think that Longines is stuck in a retro-rewind and I'd love to see some more contemporary fare from the brand in the future. Having said that, if vintage-style watches are selling well, then don't expect too many changes soon.
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When it comes to affordable watches with some interesting styling, Christopher Ward has been on the radar for most of us, and new for the brand is the Christopher Ward 65 Classic. One of the first watches I came into contact with from them was their excellent C60 Trident GMT. Given that history, www.demowatches.net/ulysse-nardin-c-130.html I was rather intrigued to see their new iteration in that lineup, the C65 Trident Classic.
This takes the Trident line from it's sport roots, and moves it most definitely into the realm of a dress watch. We still keep the same handset, and the wave pattern embossed into the dial. The 42mm case carries a similar profile as well, though here it's done up in a satin finish. And that's where we depart from similarities, and start talking about the differences. Attached to the case is a new bracelet (a leather strap is available as well).
On the dial side of Christopher Ward C65 Classic, we see a new color the Trident lineup hasn't had before (optic white), along with a familiar hue (matte black). Since they've moved things into a dressier direction, the circle-and-bar indices of the C60 have been traded out for narrower, raised, bar indices. Tucked under that dial is a shift in movement as well. It's still Swiss, but they've moved away from ETA and have instead opted for a SW200-1. Still a capable movement, and likely reflective of the tightening ETA supplies more than anything else.
And while this is certainly a dress watch, it's not one that you need to baby. Along with that stainless steel case, you've got a 4mm thick sapphire crystal up top, an solid (and engraved) caseback, and screw down crown. This means, of course, that the C65 will stand up to the daily bumping around, as well as shedding off any water to come in contact with (it has a 150m WR rating).
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