December 30, 2014

H. Moser Perpetual Calendar Black Edition

H Moser Perpetual Calendar Black Edition via Perpetuelle

Here’s the first official look at the new H. Moser Perpetual Calendar "Black Edition” that is launching in 2014. Now, I (re)introduced you to H. Moser just a few weeks ago, but if you aren’t up on the latest with this brand, be sure to read my report. As you can see from this new piece, the historically staid and sober H. Moser manufacture is clearly starting to move in a new direction.

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Most prominently, the 40.8mm x 11.1mm case (unchanged) and crown of this watch is made of DLC-finished titanium — the first time ever watch from H. Moser in a non-precious metal (all prior models have been either gold or platinum). As is the pin-buckle clasp of the strap. Aside from the "black” look, the watch is still the same old "Perpetual 1″ watch with Moser’s clever and user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanism (more on this below). The new aesthetic certainly is refreshing.


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Arnold & Son DSTB

Arnold and Son DSTB Watch

Another piece of horological deliciousness from Arnold & Son – the "Dial Side True Beat”, or DTSB. With annual volume of ~1,000 watches/yr, Arnold & Son has emerged in recent years as one of my favorite niche, high-end independents. www.jmontres.net/tag-heuer-replique-43.html Like every other model from Arnold & Son, this watch features an accolade-worthy in-house movement. What is special about this caliber and watch — aside from it incorporating a not-oft-seen "true beat seconds” mechanism — is that the newly developed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds’ mechanism entirely on the dial side.

Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels and three rose-gold treated true beat seconds bridges — all located dial-side so their beauty can be fully enjoyed. Some of you may be wondering what exactly is a "true beat seconds” and I will explain that below.

A "true beat” seconds — sometimes also referred to as a "dead beat” seconds — is a mechanical configuration such that the seconds "ticks” rather "sweeps”. Breguet used the expression seconde d’un coup or "sudden second” to refer to the same. Other independent watchmakers such as Gronefeld and Habring have released such watches. Generally, the jump of a hand is a distinctive feature of a quartz watch – but in mechanical watchmaking, this "function” is a technical feat. And that’s clearly what this watch is — a demonstration of technical and mechanical prowess!

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The true beat seconds are indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a white lacquered domed subdial with blued hands indicates the hours and the minutes.

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December 26, 2014

Armin Strom Racing Manual Watch

Armin Strom Racing Manual watch, with bridges made from F1 car engine
For the 2014 Formula 1 season, ARMIN STROM updates its Racing Collection by introducing two new calibres made from a Formula 1 engine. Let’s take a look at the manufacture’s Racing Manual, a limited edition of 50 pieces with visible dial-side bridges machined from the original motor block of an F1 car (Armin Strom is a sponsor of Team Marussia). www.ko-watch.com/tag-heuer-replica-45.html The watch features Armin Strom’s distinct case shape (note the asymmetry with the ‘tab’ at the bottom of the case) — nicely sized at 43.4mm x 13mm — in titanium with black PVD-treated steel bezel.

This watch beats to the tune of the manufacture calibre AMW11 with 5-day power reserve. You can see that the watch bridges, in addition to their machined form, have an unfinished roughness to them that plays into the overall aesthetic and reinforces the fact that the movement bridges are machined directly from the engine block of an F1 car.

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Original Owner Rolex Ref 6263 “Paul Newman”

Rolex Ref 6263 Steel Paul Newman

Highlighting Antiquorum’s auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” this past Wednesday, April 9th in New York was a Rolex Ref. 6263 Paul Newman in Steel [lot 289] with its iconic "panda” dial.www.watcheshe.net/audemars-piguet-watches-replica-c-4.html The rare chronograph inspired a passionate (perhaps aggressive is a better word) bidding war between eight phone bidders and a room bidder, finally selling to the room bidder for a staggering $231,750.

For a bit of perspective, this "Original owner” Rolex went for $30,000 MORE than a Patek Philippe Ref 5102 "Celestial” which also sold in the auction. No doubt, the Rolex market is insane right now. And an original owner 6263 in condition such as this one is easily seen as a must have for a serious Rolex collector.

"We are delighted by the outstanding result for the Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Ref. 6263 in our April auction,” said Saori Omura, Watch Director, Antiquorum USA. "As confirmed by today’s results, rare timepieces offered from the property of its original owner continue to be highly sought-after by savvy collectors across the globe.”

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December 24, 2014

Jaquet Droz Paillonné Enamel Timepieces

Jaquet Droz Paillonné Enamel Timepieces

This beautiful trio of limited edition watches from Jaquet Droz puts on display the art of paillonné enamelling. What is paillonné enamelling? The Paillonné technique consists in tucking a piece of foil – a "paillon” – between two layers of enamel.

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In this trio — a 43mm Grande Seconde, a 39mm Petite Heure Minute, and a 50mm pocket watch — the pieces exhibit a deep blue grand feu enamel dial decorated with gold foil (paillons) baked into the enamel, to great visual effect.


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Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Yellow Gold Watch

Patek 2499 Yellow Gold original owner circa 1967 detail

This piece sold for nearly 2x its pre-sale estimate. And the incredibly robust secondary market for high-end watches ticks on.

Received as a gift from two of his friends, who purchased the watch at Gobbi Milano in 1967, the original owner didn’t like the watch much.Patek Philippe Replica Watch He wore it on extremely rare occasions and throughout his life, according to his family the watch was only serviced twice. Part of the celebrated third series of 2499’s, this example features the nice feuille hands as often seen on earlier examples rather than the more common dauphine hands. Worn very little for the obvious reasons cited above, the watch has remained in close to new condition.

Its lugs are extremely thick, two beautiful crisp and clean hallmarks on the outer side of the case, a sparkling movement and amazingly the original owner kept the original box and certificate. A rare, almost unique opportunity to acquire one of the nicest third series ever to appear at auction and fresh to the market. Property of the family of the original owner.

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December 20, 2014

Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Dial Edition

Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller D-Blue Edition water shot

If ever an event was worthy of a special commemorative Rolex, James Cameron’s journey to (and exploration of) the deepest place on earth, the Mariana Trench, would be it. The new Replica Rolex Watch Deepsea "D-Blue Dial” edition is distinguished first and foremost by its two-tone gradient dial, a Rolex first. Otherwise sharing all of the features of the first Deepsea that Rolex unveiled in 2008 (though a far cry from the ultra-robust specs of the THREE experimental Rolex Deepsea Challenge watch that went down with James Cameron (more on this new revelation below), I’ll walk you through the new Rolex Deepsea "D-Blue” in this Perpetuelle Special Report.

44mm stainless steel Rolex Oyster case (3900/12,800 ft water resistance; titanium caseback; 5.5mm thick sapphire crystal), automatic mechanical Rolex Cal 3135 (COSC, Parachrom hairspring), Rolex Chromalight luminescence, black Rolex Cerachrom ceramic bezel, Glidelock+Fliplock on steel bracelet.

As Perpetuelle reported extensively on, on March 26, 2012, film-maker and explorer James Cameron made a record-breaking solo dive 35,787 feet (10,908 meters) below the surface of the Pacific Ocean in the DEEPSEA CHALLENGER submersible, a robust science platform, reaching the world’s deepest frontier. The inspirational DEEPSEA CHALLENGE expedition pave the way for a new era in scientific exploration of the ocean floor, the least known area of the planet. No human being had returned to such depths since January 23, 1960, the date of the first manned dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench by the bathyscaphe Trieste. A Rolex watch accompanied — and successfully operated throughout — each mission.

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December 12, 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater
I rarely feature ladies watches here at Perpetuelle, but when I do they often seem to be pieces by Jaeger-LeCoultre Replica Watch. In fact, the last time I wrote about a ladies watch was June 18, 2012, and yes it was a Jaeger-LeCoultre. In my book, that definitely says something positive about JLC and ladies watches! Now, to the subject at hand — this Ivy Minute Repeater, part of the JLC 2014 lineup, is a truly stunning watch. This is a limited edition of 88 pieces, and it is JLC’s first ever ladies minute repeater.

Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the new automatic mechanical Cal 942a specifically for this watch and its 39mm case size. As a point of fact, the exceptional JLC Hybris Mechanica 11 – Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (another 2014 release) – is the only timepiece which boasts a combination of this mechanism with a minute-repeater function.

The Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater classic watch is fitted with two patented trebuchet hammers. The hammers strike two crystal gongs connected to the sapphire crystal in unison, producing an enhanced loudspeaker effect.

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Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar 40mm

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar 40mm watches
In 2015 Cartier will introduce an new version of its Rotonde de Carter Annual Calendar. This may be considered an "evolved” version of the 2012 Rotonde Annual Calendar, but the changes are substantial and will, I think, broaden the appeal of this piece. Most importantly, the 2015 Rotonde de Replica Carter Annual Calendar will be presented in a 40mm case. This is a full (and much welcomed) 5mm downsize vs. the prior iteration — I think we can all agree now that 45mm is, save for certain exceptional timepieces here and there, inappropriate for any refined & sophisticated dress watch, so this is much more desirable and appropriate size for this watch.

In another important redesign, the month and day indicators have been rearranged — essentially they have traded places. Now the Days of the Week are on the outer edge of the dial (current Day marked by a red block), and the month indicator is now on the inner dial. Further, the month is restricted to a 3-month view in an aperture at 6 o’clock (the old model had all 12 months visible on the dial at any given time).

Of course such meaningful changes required a new caliber — the new automatic mechanical manufacture caliber 9908 MC operates at at 28,800 vibrations per hours and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. Its functions are entirely controlled through the single crown, another nice feature.

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